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I apologize for not getting this up and done sooner. Needless to say the forums, and the front page got hacked, we since then have locked things down, and things appear to be better over all.

I was able to get the front page done sooner, but the forums with all of its data was MUCH more difficult to deal with. Needless to say, I just finished it! YAHOO!

Just in time with Facebook about to take a nose dive, and doing other crazy things to people. (Censorship, etc etc).
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  • #16
    Got another update!

    I picked up some washers from Ace and did a test fit with the PA120.1. I was nervous that the washers wouldn't fit (I got multiple sizes that looked close) but the largest ones I got fit perfectly. It's secure enough.



    I was a little nervous about the filter not fitting over the washers and screws but with some massaging it fit fine with no mods. The filter had more flex than I thought it would.




    And a shot of the LED strip mounted. Apologies for the dark/blurry pic; the lighting wasn't great in my kitchen. You get the idea though.



    My MDPC sleeving came a few days ago from Nils in Germany (ordered 30m of small sleeve and 5m of SATA sleeve, plus some SATA heatshrink). Nils' trademark is to include a personalized hand-drawn picture with each order:



    I'll do the SATA cables soon, but I figured I'd sleeve my MCP655 pump with it to compare it to the paracord. Unfortunately I didn't see any easy way to open up the pump to put the sleeve inside the pump housing for a neater look but it's not too bad as is.




    (sorry, I should have marked this thread NSFW...topless pump )

    Now after having used both, MDPC kicks the absolute **** out of paracord. It's not even close. MDPC sleeve goes over the wire easier, it doesn't snag so you don't need to tape the connectors like you do with paracord, and it grips onto the heatshrink better so it goes into the molex connectors way easier. If I'd known this stuff was so much better I might have just swallowed the price difference and gone with this instead of the paracord from the beginning. Per foot it would have been more expensive but I wouldn't have had to redo as many. Live and learn, I suppose. When I sleeve the switch wires for the baybus I'll be using the MDPC.



    So at this point all I have left to sleeve for this project is the baybus switch wires and the SATA cables. I may sleeve the other Corsair molex power cable but since I'm lazy I'll probably wait and see if I can get away without it. With the molex extension cables I have I should be ok without it but we'll see.

    I also did a test fit of the XSPC D5 reservoir in the case and it fits fine in the 5.25" bays without having to trim some metal from the case. I did have one minor issue where the slider used to control the tool-less part of the bay fell off, but after some finagling I was able to get it back on. It seemed to hold ok with just the tool-less aparatus holding it in place but I may screw it in just to be safe/cut down on vibration from the pump.

    I'm leery to do much else with the case since I'm going to want to take almost everything out of the case (sans fans and lighting) when I drill the hole for the fillport in the top. I should be able to do that at some point this weekend, weather permitting. I'll also see where I want to route cables and make some holes in the back to mount the cable clips.

    Quick shots of the rads:




    In the words of Scooter from Borderlands, they're not the prettiest girls at the dance but they'll put out the second you ask 'em. Now that the rads are cleaned the only thing I have to do is retap the rest of the mounting holes for M4 thread. I have some 30mm black M4 screws on the way for mounting the fans to the rads. Already have some matching shorter M4 screws to mount the rads to the case directly.

    Oh, and yesterday while I was thoroughly cleaning my rads and blocks I found the reason why my clear tubing turned pink...when I was scrubbing the Apogee XT internal pins with a toothbrush and some 90% isopropyl alcohol the bristles were turning a light shade of red. Just as I suspected, the dye from my old red tubing got stuck in the pins. I scrubbed carefully until the brush came away clean so I must have gotten all of it. Fortunately when I was flushing the radiators with hot water + alcohol that water came out clear. There's a little bit of pink left inside the reservoir near the top but I figure if it didn't come off during cleaning it won't come off at all.

    TL;DR: Avoid Primoflex LRT red unless you don't mind cleaning your blocks afterward.

    Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
    Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
    HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

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    • #17
      Tiny update. Tonight I sleeved the wires for the baybus switches and 4 SATA cables. I'll probably do one more in case I end up using both my current 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 and a new 240GB Corsair Force GS 3 I bought a few days ago, for a total of 5 sleeved SATA cables. I'll get a pic of that up at some point.

      Sometime this weekend I should be able to drill the hole for the fillport in the 800D, as well as mounting holes for the cable clips behind the motherboard tray. Just have to figure out where I want to route the cables.

      My GTX 570 should arrive at EVGA headquarters this coming Tuesday. There's a slim chance I'll have the GTX 680 in hand by next Friday, but more likely the following Monday.

      Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
      Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
      HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

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      • #18
        Enjoyed these photos. Makes me more and more curious to see the interior layout when you are to that point.
        A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds -- Emerson
        On Earth, what goes up tends to come down.

        Here's more at my blog:
        http://findingourdream.blogspot.com/

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        • #19
          Thanks Hal. I'm anxious to get to building it too.

          Anyhoo, I finally drilled the hole for the fillport tonight. As I probably mentioned before, I used a 1" holesaw to make the hole. I've heard that some people have used holesaws made for wood successfully on metal, but I decided to get one made for metal just to be safe.

          I thought about putting the fillport in the middle but it would have interfered with the front panel wires. The port in the reservoir is off center anyway, so I figured there'd be no harm in putting the fillport to the left rather than dead center. To drill the hole, I simply covered the area with masking tape and marked the area where I wanted to drill.



          (The mark shown in the picture is not where I actually drilled, because I stupidly made the mark right over where the 5.25" drive cage meets the top of the case. I remarked it half an inch to the right, pretty much right where that circular mark ends.)

          I then used a small bit to drill a hole for the pilot bit, then attached the holesaw and drilled out the hole. No pics of this, but I'm sure you get the idea.

          Here's the finished hole.




          I didn't have a round file that would fit in there, but it doesn't really need to be filed much. The hole is smooth enough and it's gonna be covered up by the fillport anyway. Speaking of, here's the finished product:




          (You can kinda see the holesaw I used in the 2nd picture...it's the white looking tube thing on the left. The pilot bit is next to it.)

          So that's the majority of the drilling I'll have to do. I'll do a test fit with everything early this coming week and see where I want to route cables behind the motherboard tray before I go drilling holes willy-nilly.

          Couple more random shots. Here's the cable clips I'll be using. 1/2" on the left, 1/4" on the right.



          Here are the Corsair SATA cables, sleeved with MDPC SATA sleeve. These were actually kind of a pain to sleeve because the sleeve was just large enough to fit over the connectors (the straight ones...no way I would have been able to get the sleeve over the right angled ones). Apologies for the blurry pics.




          This is a 4-pin molex to 5x 3-pin adapter. Basically, I'm gonna use these to connect groups of fans to one channel of the Lamptron baybus. The 4 radiator fans will go on one and the case fans on another. I could have just gotten multi-headed cables to connect multiple fans to one cable, but these just looked cool for some reason.



          And that's about all I've got for now. I'll have more to post later this week after a test fit.

          Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
          Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
          HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

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          • #20
            Looking good Warbird! Fillport is one thing I need to do when building my next "big" rig.
            i5 2500K @ 4.9GHz+ 8GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @1600Mhz CAS 6 Asus P8P67 Pro CrossFire 6970's @ 950/1450
            Xeon X5677 @ 4.5Ghz 6GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @1600Mhz CAS 7 Gigabyte EX58-UD5 4870x2
            i7-880 @ 4.2Ghz+ (still playing) 4GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @2300Mhz CAS 9 Asus Maximus III Formula MSI Hawk 5770


            Originally posted by Nietzsche
            Battle not with monsters, lest ye become a monster, and if you gaze into the abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.

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            • #21
              Thanks Case of Base! The fillport was mandatory for this rig; I got too used to it with the HAF to live without it in this rig.

              Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
              Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
              HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

              Comment


              • #22
                Little update for today. My GTX 680 has shipped from EVGA and will be here Monday. In the meantime, I decided to "halfway" put the machine together to get an idea on wire routing and component placement.

                The P67 FTW says it's EATX in the specs, even though it's only slightly larger than a normal ATX board. While having a large motherboard is kinda cool, it does cause one very minor issue in that sleeved cables will not run through the grommeted holes directly next to 90-degree ports on the board (like the ATX 24-pin connector and SATA ports). The board overlaps them just a touch.



                It's a very minor issue; there's plenty of ways to route cables. At least from the front, this will definitely be one of the cleanest builds I've ever done (sleeving notwithstanding). Jury's still out on the back.

                I didn't get any pics of the machine while it's wired up with the panel off, but I did get a comparison shot with the LED strip on and off.





                The light looks kinda bluish in the picture, I think because the blue LED on the motherboard tints it a bit. It looks white in person. I may toss in an older video card to see if it casts a huge shadow. I doubt I'll need a second light though. Just the one LED strip should be plenty of illumination.

                About the only other thing I'm gonna need is a set of 8-pin EPS extension cables. Both 8-pin cables will reach the top of the board going behind the panel but they stretch a bit more than I'd like and I can't use the backplate access panel with the cables stretched across it. Should be the only thing I'll need extensions for.

                Machine should be finished sometime next week!
                Last edited by YMAA; 10-21-2012, 08:14 PM.

                Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
                Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
                HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

                Comment


                • #23
                  Forget Monday, UPS tracking shows my 680 is scheduled for early delivery TODAY!

                  Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
                  Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
                  HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    IT'S ALIIIIIIIIVE! ....mostly.

                    I tested the 680 on its stock cooler in my old X58 rig I cobbled together for a few days while I waited for a couple odds and ends to arrive.

                    By the way, I want to give a HUGE HUGE shout-out to FrozenCPU for their amazing shipping speed and customer service. Without these guys my rig would have taken a lot longer to complete. Granted their warehouse is only a few hours from me, but still. Mad props to these guys.

                    Anyhoo, tonight after work I installed the Koolance waterblock and the EVGA backplate on the 680. The backplate fits with this block but I wasn't able to use a couple screws, and one screw had to be used to attach the block but wouldn't hold down the backplate. Looks OK but I was a little worried at first.

                    I'll take some better pics later this week, but here's a crappy pic (taken with flash) in her current state:



                    Plumbing the loop took a while because of two things: I've never used compression fittings before and most of them were in hard to reach places, and I wasn't sure where I wanted to put the T-block to connect the drain port (another first...never used an honest to goodness drain before). I ended up putting the T-block right after the PA120.1 at the bottom, so the water will come out of the rad (through a 90-degree Monsoon rotary fitting) and then make another 90-degree turn through the T-block and back up to the reservoir. So the full layout is:

                    pump/res > PA120.3 > CPU > GPU > PA120.1 > pump/res

                    I was kinda worried when I was filling the loop because it seemed like it didn't take very long for air bubbles to stop coming into the res. Like, minutes. For a while I thought the pump wasn't pushing the water through the T-block, but when I gently but firmly squeezed the tubes I could see the water move in the reservoir so it must have just filled really quickly.

                    Also, I had one scare when I was filling the loop when the Monsoon rotary fitting leaked like crazy. I had to drain it, disconnect the tube from the fitting, and tighten it. After that it stayed dry and I could finish filling.

                    I opted to not use the cable clamps because I was able to route all the cables neatly and compactly enough that they weren't necessary. It just didn't seem worth it to take the system apart again to drill the holes to mount then. I still have them so I may use them down the road, but for now it's fine without them.

                    I didn't meet my goal of not using anything adhesive on the case itself. I couldn't find a place to which I wanted to mount the fan power block with screws or zipties, so I stuck the sticky side of the velcro pad they include to the floor of the case behind the bottom drive cage, then used the fan cable extensions (all sleeved) to that. The fan for the PA120.1 is the only fan I have plugged into the motherboard because I ran out of spots on the power brick and I didn't want to mount the other one for just one fan.

                    There's a couple things I have left to do before I put up my Mission Accomplished banner:
                    • The case fillport and the reservoir don't quite line up as nicely as I'd hoped. To rectify this I have a 45-degree Bitspower rotary fitting on the way. I would have gone with another Monsoon rotary fitting but they stick out farther than I'd like and I'm not using a Monsoon fitting for the reservoir.
                    • Once I get the fillport situation fixed, I can put the baybus back in and hook up the lights.
                    • General cleanup and hiding away of wires once the lights are hooked back up.


                    Windows is installed and now I'm just getting programs and such installed. I probably should have spent more time leak testing but it's been on for about 3 hours now with no trouble, so I'm past the danger zone.

                    I'll have it all finished up this week!

                    Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
                    Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
                    HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      That is freaking sweet!
                      Mac Mini: 2.3Ghz i7; 8GB DDR3 1600; 256GB SSD; Dell U2410; OSX Mountain Lion

                      iPod Classic 160GB Black

                      iPhone 5 16GB Black

                      iPad Mini 16GB Black

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                      • #26
                        I took the machine outside yesterday for a photo shoot. I would have liked a bit more cloud cover so the light wouldn't be so harsh, but the pictures came out alright I think.








                        And a quick shot of the fillport fitting:



                        This project has been a long time coming and I'm glad it's finally finished. I doubt I'll ever do a build on this scale again but it was a lot of fun.

                        Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
                        Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
                        HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Looks very nice! Clean and still relatively easy to access stuff in case you need to.

                          I said I wouldn't build another full out mod/water setup before too, but now after some time passes I am getting itchy

                          If it bled that fast you might want to shake the top and make sure half the rad up there isn't one big *** bubble. With that plumbing I doubt it, but something to think about.
                          i5 2500K @ 4.9GHz+ 8GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @1600Mhz CAS 6 Asus P8P67 Pro CrossFire 6970's @ 950/1450
                          Xeon X5677 @ 4.5Ghz 6GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @1600Mhz CAS 7 Gigabyte EX58-UD5 4870x2
                          i7-880 @ 4.2Ghz+ (still playing) 4GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @2300Mhz CAS 9 Asus Maximus III Formula MSI Hawk 5770


                          Originally posted by Nietzsche
                          Battle not with monsters, lest ye become a monster, and if you gaze into the abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by tool_462 View Post
                            Looks very nice! Clean and still relatively easy to access stuff in case you need to.

                            I said I wouldn't build another full out mod/water setup before too, but now after some time passes I am getting itchy

                            If it bled that fast you might want to shake the top and make sure half the rad up there isn't one big *** bubble. With that plumbing I doubt it, but something to think about.
                            Thanks Casey! Your rigs (in particular the Pinnacle) have been a real inspiration for this one.

                            I did shake the machine a bit and didn't seem to knock any more air loose as far as I could tell. For a few days after it was finished when the machine is first turned on it the pump would make a lot of noise like it was trying to pass a large air bubble that would stop after about 10 seconds or so but I wouldn't notice a change in the reservoir's water level. Then a day or so after that I checked the res and the water level did drop a noticeable amount so I added some more water and that noise went away...so I think I'm good and bled now.

                            Temps are perfect; CPU idles around 32C and full load around 55C (4.6GHz 1.4v - still playing with the voltage a bit). GPU idles at 25C and loads about 35C! Considering the relatively high ambients (my room has lousy ventilation unless I leave the window open) that's not bad IMO. At least par for the course with what my other WC builds have netted, CPU-wise. This is by far the coolest watercooled GPU I've ever used - the 680s do NOT heat up much.

                            When I get some spare time I need to Windex the side panel window because it's already dirty . Once that's done I'll get a decent pic with the panel and lighting on.

                            Gaming: i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz | EVGA P67 FTW | 16GB | SLI MSI GTX 970s | 240GB Corsair Force 3, 1TB Samsung 850 EVO, 500GB Velociraptor | Modded 800D | DIY H20 | Windows 8.1
                            Linux: i5 3450 | Gigabyte H77 | 16GB | Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition | 120GB Vertex 3 MI (boot), 3 x 3TB WD Red (ZFS RAID-Z) | Fractal Design Arc Mini | Arch Linux
                            HTPC/Steambox: Athlon II X2 260 | Gigabyte 880G | GT 720 | 4GB | 500GB WD Blue | Silverstone SG02 | Arch Linux + Kodi + Steam

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by YMAA View Post
                              Anyhoo, I finally drilled the hole for the fillport tonight. As I probably mentioned before, I used a 1" holesaw to make the hole. I've heard that some people have used holesaws made for wood successfully on metal, but I decided to get one made for metal just to be safe.

                              [....]

                              Here's the finished hole.

                              A bit late. Just wanted to add this, "Glad to see you did not have a 'drill + foot' accident like someone did on these forums".

                              Overall, superb build!
                              Deskop: Core i7 920|P6T Deluxe V2|R9 290|X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional|12 GB DDR3 1600|X-25M 80 GB|2 x 160 GB RAID 0|2 x 1.5 TB RAID 1|RocketRaid 640 with 2 x 3 TB RAID 1|Corsair HX850 WATT PSU|Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit|Silverstone TJ-09BW w/ USB 3.0 mod|Dell U2410 24" 1920x1200|Creative G500 5.1 Speakers|Logitech G15v2|Logitech G5
                              HTPC/Gaming: FX8320|Crosshair V Formula-Z
                              |R9 270X 4GB|8 GB DDR3 1600|2 x 250 GB RAID 0|SeaSonic SSR-650RM PSU|Windows 8.1 Pro with Media Center 64-bit|SilverStone LC10B-E USB 3.0
                              HP ENVY 17-1011NR: Core i7 720QM|HM55 Chipset|USB 3.0|Mobility Radeon HD 5850|8 GB DDR3 1333|2 x 320 GB|Blu-Ray|Back-lit keyboard with num pad|Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit|17.3" HP Ultra BrightView Infinity LED 1920x1080
                              Old School: Athlon 64 3200+|K8N-E Deluxe|GeForce 6800|2 GB DDR 400|200 GB|PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 WATT PSU|Windows XP Professional 32-bit|Thermaltake Shark

                              Apple iPhone 6 64 GB iOS 8.3
                              Lenovo Ideapad K1 Android 4.1.1 with root

                              Game consoles: PlayStation
                              |XBOX|PlayStation 2|GameCube|XBOX 360|PlayStation 3|Wii|GameBoy Advance SP|3DS|PlayStation Portable|PlayStation Vita|XBOX One|PlayStation 4

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